How to change strings

If you've recently purchased a guitar and are taking your first steps in music, there will come a time when you'll have to change the strings on your instrument for the first time. This procedure is relatively straightforward, but it has some important nuances that you should pay attention to in order not to damage the guitar and achieve excellent sound and proper tuning with the new strings.

When should you replace old strings with new ones?

The time interval for changing guitar strings can vary significantly depending on factors such as how frequently you play, the storage and use conditions of the instrument, your care for the strings (or lack thereof), the type of strings you use, and more. A professional musician typically replaces strings before each concert, even if they perform daily, while a hobbyist guitarist may use the same set of strings for six months without any noticeable issues. Therefore, when deciding on a string replacement, we recommend focusing on their current condition rather than the time that has passed since the last string change. If the guitar sounds noticeably less vibrant than before, if the strings are becoming discolored, if they are struggling to stay in tune in positions where they previously held up well, or if the notes sustain less than before, these are clear signs that it’s time to replace them. It’s also recommended to change the strings immediately after purchasing a new instrument. The reason is that even though the instrument is new, the path it takes from the factory to the musician’s hands can be lengthy, and during that time, the strings installed at the factory lose their qualities. By installing a new set, you’ll be pleasantly surprised at how much better the instrument sounds compared to when you bought it.

What strings should you choose for replacement?

The modern market offers a vast variety of guitar strings, and advice on selecting a specific set is a topic for a separate article. Here, we’d like to offer a simple recommendation: whenever possible, use strings of the same gauge (thickness) as the ones that were previously installed on your guitar (if you were satisfied with them). Otherwise, when installing strings of a different gauge, you’ll likely need to adjust the neck’s relief using the truss rod, and this isn’t always easy without the proper experience. Without truss rod adjustments, you may encounter difficulties with uncomfortable string height over the fretboard or unpleasant buzzing on the frets.

Do you need to replace the entire set if one string breaks?

This is a very common question, and there isn’t a one-size-fits-all answer. In general, breaking a string during playing isn’t that easy to do. If you managed to break one, it was probably quite old, and the oxidation process had caused it to lose its strength. In this case, it can be guaranteed that the remaining strings are also in poor condition and need replacement. Another scenario is if you break a string while tuning, inadvertently over-tightening it due to inexperience, while the other strings sound and look fine. In this situation, you can replace only the broken string, and it’s advisable to install a new one of the same gauge as the one that broke.

The order in which you replace the strings is not crucial; you can start with any string, but most guitarists prefer to start with the sixth string. To begin, loosen the tension of each string until they hang freely by turning the corresponding tuning peg. If you fully remove it from the peg, that’s perfectly fine as well. For convenience and time-saving, you can use a special peg winder, which can be purchased at any music store. This tool often comes combined with string cutters and a pin puller (shown in the photo below). If you don’t have a peg winder, you can do without it. When turning the tuning peg, make sure you’re turning it in the correct direction, or else you might break the string instead of loosening it.

Special plastic or wooden bridge pins are used to hold the strings in place. You should carefully remove these pins to free the string. Don’t attempt to do this while the string is still under tension, as you’re likely to break the pin. It’s best to use the same peg winder used for tuning pegs or regular string cutters, as shown in the photo. In a pinch, any other suitable tool can be used to gently pry out the pin from underneath, such as a spoon. After removing the pins, you can freely pull out the string ends from the bridge pinholes and remove them from the guitar.

When the strings are removed, you have the best opportunity to care for your instrument. Dirt can accumulate on the guitar’s top and the fretboard between the frets, and it should be removed using a dry or slightly damp (not wet!) cloth. To moisten the fretboard, it’s useful to treat it with special lemon oil, also available at music stores (this is very beneficial for rosewood and ebony fretboards but not compatible with lacquered maple fretboards). Check if the string pegs are tightly secured. Over time, they can come loose without being noticeable while they are still tensioned. If you desire, you can polish the guitar body to its perfect condition using a special guitar body polish.

Insert the end of the string, with the so-called “ball end,” into the bridge pinhole, and then insert the pin into the same hole to secure it. Pull the string toward you until the ball end rests against the pin, thus locking it in place. Thread the other end through the corresponding tuning peghole. Insert the string with the intention that, after securing it on the peg, it lies freely on the fretboard, allowing you to lift it 3-4 cm upwards. It’s important to have some extra length on one side to wind a few turns around the peg. On the other hand, this excess should not be very large to prevent the windings from overlapping each other, which can lead to tuning instability.

Turn the peg so that the pin rotates half a turn. At this point, make sure the short end of the string protruding from the peg goes over the main string, as shown in the photo. Make one more turn and then pass the free end underneath the string itself. This is necessary to ensure it enters the “lock” and doesn’t move in the peghole. Otherwise, it may not hold the tune and will “slip” when tuning the guitar. If you prefer, you can do it the other way around by passing the free end under the string first and then the second time over it.

With one hand, pull the string in the peg area, and with the other hand, turn the peg while making sure that the windings lay evenly on the peg. Don’t make too many windings. For bass strings with textured coatings, 2-3 turns are sufficient, and for uncoated strings, 3-4 turns. Tighten the string to approximately the desired pitch without trying to tune it exactly. Repeat the same process with the other strings. During installation, it’s important to ensure the string’s correct position relative to the peg’s side. And it’s essential not only from an aesthetic standpoint but also from a practical one. Observe the photos for the correct and incorrect positioning. To get it right, when tightening, turn the pegs for the sixth, fifth, and fourth strings clockwise, and for the first, second, and third strings, turn them counterclockwise.

After all the new strings are installed and tuned, it’s essential to tune them. The most convenient tool for this purpose is a tuner, which can also be purchased at a music store. New strings will stretch and might not hold their tuning well for a while, but this is normal. Tune your guitar using the tuner, then play it, make a few adjustments on each string. The tuning may “drift” slightly, so re-tune the guitar using the tuner. Depending on the strings, you may need to repeat this process two to three times. Some strings require time and might start staying in tune a few hours after installation. In any case, if everything is done correctly, your guitar will be ready for use again soon. It’s best to trim the excess string ends protruding from the pegs with wire cutters or special string clippers.

Changing Strings on a Classical Guitar

On a classical guitar, strings are fastened to the bridge without pins, using a special knot that you’ll need to learn to tie. There’s nothing too complicated about it; look closely at the photo or take a picture of this knot on your guitar before you remove the old strings, so you have a reference during the installation of the new string. Other than that, the string replacement process is the same as on an acoustic guitar. Loosen the string, then free one end from the peg. After that, untie the knot on the other end at the string holder, and remove it. Repeat the procedure with the other strings, clean the guitar body and neck (as detailed earlier). When installing the new string, thread one end through the hole in the string holder and tie the securing knot (see the photo).

Thread the other end through the hole in the corresponding peg. Follow the same winding rules as on an acoustic guitar (see above). Tune the instrument and trim any excess ends protruding from the pegs. Nylon strings on a classical guitar take longer to stretch and may not hold their tuning precisely right after installation. Don’t be surprised if you can’t tune it perfectly right away. After some time, they will settle, and you’ll be able to tune it accurately.

We hope this article helps you learn how to change your guitar strings on your own. As you can see, it’s not too complicated!

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